THIS IS HOW YOU KNIT · LITLG
The Atlantic Shawl
a first shawl in Singles SW Merino
KEEP THESE INSTRUCTIONS CLOSE AT HAND.
MATERIALS
- 1-2 skeins LITLG Singles SW Merino (100g / approx 400m each)
1 skein = shawlette approx 130cm wingspan
2 skeins = full shawl approx 185cm wingspan - 4.5mm needles, long circular at least 80cm
- 2 stitch markers, tapestry needle
ABBREVIATIONS
| RS | Right Side |
| WS | Wrong Side |
| k | Knit |
| p | Purl |
| yo | Yarn over — creates a new stitch and a decorative eyelet |
| k2tog | Knit 2 together — decrease, leans right |
| pm | Place marker |
| sm | Slip marker |
| CO | Cast on |
| BO | Bind off |
PATTERN NOTES
This is a top-down triangular shawl, beginning at the center back neck and growing outward with yarnover increases on either side of a center spine stitch and at both ends of the row.
Worked entirely flat. WS rows are simple garter (knit all sts), so you only need to think on the RS rows. Ideal for beginners.
EDGE STITCHES (throughout the body):
- Beginning of every row: k2
- End of every row: k2
All increases and decreases are worked just inside these edge stitches.
CAST ON — GERMAN TWISTED CAST ON
CO 5 sts using the German Twisted Cast On. This creates a beautifully elastic, rounded edge perfectly suited to the neckline of a shawl — it sits against the neck like a seam, not a cord.
How to work it: Make a slip knot. Hold yarn over your thumb in a slingshot position. Insert needle into the thumb loop from below, wrap the index finger yarn as normal and pull through. Tighten gently. The result has a double strand that creates a neat, elastic foundation.
SETUP ROWS
Row 1 (RS): k2, yo, k1 (center spine stitch), yo, k2 — 7 sts
Row 2 (WS): k2, p3, k2
BODY
Row 1 (RS — increase row): k2, yo, knit to center spine stitch, yo, k1, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2 (4 sts increased each RS row)
Row 2 (WS): k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2
Repeat Rows 1-2 until shawl reaches desired size, or until approx 20g of yarn remains for the edging.
EDGING — SIMPLE LACE BORDER
The edging is worked over 6 rows and creates a delicate eyelet border that finishes the shawl beautifully — a little breath of openwork that frames the fabric.
Row 1 (RS): k2, *yo, k2tog; repeat from * to last 3 sts, yo, k3
Row 2 (WS): k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2
Rows 3-4: Knit all sts
Rows 5-6: Knit all sts
BIND OFF AND BLOCKING
Use a stretchy bind off: *yo, k1, pass the yo and previous stitch over; repeat from * to end. This gives a bind off that matches the elasticity of the cast on and creates a consistent, professional edge that will not pull in.
Blocking: Soak in cool water for 20 minutes. Squeeze gently — do not wring. Lay flat and pin to shape, stretching the cast-on edge and the eyelet border to open them up. Allow to dry completely before unpinning. The Singles SW Merino blooms beautifully when blocked and the drape will transform.
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Before you start: winding your yarn
Most yarn — including ours — comes in a hank (a loose loop) rather than a ball ready to knit straight from. Before you cast on you’ll need to wind it into a cake or ball, otherwise it’ll tangle the moment you start pulling from it.
You have a few options:
- Pop into your local yarn shop. Most are happy to wind a hank for you on the spot — especially if you’ve bought from them. It takes them two minutes and saves you the hassle.
- Buy a swift and ball winder. A basic umbrella swift (holds the hank open) and a cheap ball winder (winds it into a neat flat cake) costs around €30–€40 combined and makes the whole process satisfying and quick.
- Use the back of a chair. Loop the hank over a chair back to keep it open, then wind by hand into a ball. It takes a little longer but works perfectly well for the odd skein.
Whichever you choose, wind loosely — winding too tightly stretches the yarn and can affect your tension.